Boxwoods

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HEALTHY ENGLISH BOXWOOD (20 YEARS OLD AND THREE FEET TALL)

Boxwood come in many shapes and sizes. There are many cultivar of boxwood though

30 YEAR OLD AMERICAN BOXWOOD ( EIGHT FEET TALL )

mostly I see the American boxwood and the English boxwood. The American boxwood is simply the regeneration of the plant by seed where as an English boxwood is the regeneration of a cultivar by rooting a clipping from the selected plant. I have been given an odd boxwood dubbed the Weeping boxwood which has done very well and is an extremely fast grower, about a foot per year. One can generally tell the difference between an American, English and Weeping boxwoods by the shape and structure. The English is a dense slow growing shrub with smaller leaves than the American. The American grows faster and has an open sparse branch

10 YEAR OLD WEEPING BOXWOOD (EIGHT FEET TALL )

structure being more pinical in shape when young. The Weeping boxwood is very fast growing, so much so that in the spring it weeps over with new growth. The Weeping boxwood is even

more sparse in structure and pinical in shape. Boxwood thrive in shade and scattered sunlight. They can tolerate full sun and dense shade. Unlike many woody stem plants in Virginia, boxwoods prefer a less acidic soil and do well in manicured lawn

LEAF MINOR IN ENGLISH BOXWOOD

spaces where lime is employed. Boxwood roots are shallow and need plenty of mulch and protection from draught conditions. Watering is a priority to establishing boxwoods of all sizes. They are relatively easy to root and transplant as long as they don’t dry out. There are a few diseases to be concerned about. In most cases early detection and mechanical treatment or pruning can be the remedy. One obvious pest

ENGLISH BOXWOOD LEAF WITH LEAF MINORS

visable this time of year (April) is the leaf minor. A close inspection of the under side of an infected leaf when split open reveals the

LEAF MINORS REMOVED FROM LEAF

troublesome grub. Two years ago I discovered an infestation of these insects in some American boxwoods. I pruned back the

infected limbs before the grub emerged. Now the plants are thriving with no signs of leaf minors and no harmful chemicals having been applied.

Fruit Tree Pruning

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Fruit trees can be pruned at anytime of the year. However, to maximize the development of an eatable fruit it is best to prune before the flower buds break in the spring. Additional pruning and fruit thinning may become necessary during fruit bearing months to prevent limb breakage due to over burdened branches. A well pruned tree having a stout trunk and branch structure can support a bumper crop of fruit without external support or props.Gather together the necessary tools and size up the job at hand. You may need these tools : CHAIN SAW; POLE SAW; POLE PRUNER; LONG HANDLE LOPPERS; HAND PRUNERS; HAND SAW; LADDER

APPLE TREE IN NEED OF PRUNING

Faced with a tree in need of a heavy pruning, first picture the finished work in your mind. An apple tree for example requires a strait central trunk with one, two, three, or more levels like a wedding cake or chandelier. Remove congestive branches starting with the big cuts first.

Second, establish the number of levels (apple) or the shape the tree will have. In this example the apple tree has three levels or tiers. Next establish a separation of branches from the ground to the first tier, a separation from the first tier and the second tier, and a separation between the second tier and the final third tier or top level.

ESTABLISH A SEPERATION BETWEEN THE SECOND TIER AND THE THIRD TIER OR TOP LEVEL

Finally prune all remaining branches so there are no deadwood, broken or diseased limbs, crossing and rubbing stems, and thin out any remaining congested areas. If it appears you have taken to much out ,don’t worry it will all grow back in time, especially if you follow my instructions on root zone maintenance. Contact Habitat Services for a consultation. Call now (434)-296-3327 or email shbs@habitatservices.net.

SPRING IS IN THE AIR!

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Early spring is a particularly important time for the trees and shrubs in your yard. Because of plants’ yearly life cycle, it’s a good time to prune, plant, transplant and mulch. Here are a few important tips to help you make the most of your spring landscape care.

Pruning
Necessary pruning should be done as soon as can be managed. When pruning large amounts of foliage or more than one third the crown mass, pruning is best done in the cool spring and avoided during the hot dry times of the year.

Planting / Transplanting
As the days grow longer, the temperatures rise and the ground moisture remains high, dormancy gives way to new growth. Spring rains may drive me from the tree tops, but once on the ground I grab my shovel and start lifting small trees and shrubs. [Read more…]

When is the Best Time to Prune?

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Pruning a living branch
Here is the best way to prune a living branch

Necessary pruning should be done as soon as can be managed. When pruning large amounts of foliage or more than one third the crown mass, pruning should be avoided during the dry hot months. Dead and diseased wood can be removed anytime. The best time to prune is when the tree or shrub is dormant, usually in the winter months.

Pruning the Crown

Here is the best way to reduce the crown

The images above show the proper way to prune. Images provided courtesy of the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service.

[Read more…]